Cauliflower cheese with brown butter and onion

One of my favourite pastimes when visiting foodie friends is rooting through their cookery books though I have to admit it's rare to find many I haven't got. But the other day I turned up one called English Country House Cooking by someone of the splendid name of Fortune Stanley. Turns out she - she is a she - wrote in the 70's and has an illustrious background according to this page on the Stanley family tree.

The recipe that caught my eye was a cauliflower cheese with onion which seemed an intriguing addition. I didn't have time to jot it down so made up this version when I got home.

Serves 3 as a light supper, 4 as a vegetable

1 onion
400ml milk
a sprig of thyme
1 medium cauliflower
40g butter
30g plain flour
150g of grated or crumbled cheese (I used half and half Gorwydd Caerphilly and Cheddar which is what I happened to have in the fridge)
Salt and white pepper

Peel and thickly slice the onion and put it in a pan with the milk and thyme. Bring to the boil and leave over a very low heat for the onion to cook but you don't want it to boil.

Meanwhile divide the cauliflower into florets and steam or boil until not quite cooked (about 7-8 minutes). Drain, saving some of the water.

Melt the butter in a non-stick pan and stir in the flour. Cook the roux over a low heat until it it begins to darken in colour and smell nutty. Then tip in the hot milk and onions all at once and stir. It should thicken pretty well immediately - if it's too thick add a splash of the reserved cooking water. Or more milk, if you prefer. Remove the thyme.

Add half the grated cheese and season to taste and tip into an ovenproof dish. Heat the grill, top with the remaining cheese and cook until the top is golden and bubbling.

The effect of the onion was quite interesting, making the cauliflower cheese milder if anything although that could have been the Gorwydd which is quite subtle and delicate. It would have been particularly good with boiled ham or indeed with some bacon or ham in it though I was trying to keep it veggie. (This blog is sometimes too meaty by half).

I didn't take the roux quite as far as I might have done in terms of browning it. I reckon I cooked it for about 3 minutes - I think I'd cook it a minute or so longer next time to get an even nuttier taste. And a little blue cheese might have been interesting. But a nice twist on a family classic.

Thankyou, Fortune, for the inspiration.

Incidentally the surface of the cauli cheese shouldn't look as crinkly if you flash it under the grill. I had to put mine in the top of the Aga which takes an age to brown things. One of the things that drives me nuts about it.

Veggie Wednesday: Cauliflower and Pear Curry

Last week we had one of those throw-together-meals for dinner. Cubed chicken breasts, bagged frozen veggies and bottled curry sauce. I also had a few pears on-hand that needed to be used, so I threw them into the mix. The combo of cauliflower and pear was so good that I decided to make it again as a vegetarian dish.

Ever since my friend Jodie sent me a bunch of fun stuff from Japan, including several packages of Vermont Curry, I've been hooked on it. It's sweeter than most other curries and smoother, as well. I took the Wafuu recipe from Saveur and did my own thing with it, using pears rather than apples and using my own blend of veggie. Here is the recipe with my changes in blue. Of course, the curry blend you use will change the flavor of the finished dish, so make sure to use a curry you're fond of.

Japanese-Style Chicken Curry
(Wafuu Curry)

SERVES 4

Wafuu curry has a cult following in Japan, where many fondly remember eating it at home and at school functions. The recipes vary from cook to cook, and often include a host of "secret" ingredients like chocolate, milk, miso, and dashi (a stock made from seaweed and bonito flakes). Unlike most curries in other countries, this one is thickened with flour, which creates a smoother texture.

3 cups Chicken Stock
1 tbsp. canola or peanut oil
1 lb. boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1" chunks (I left this out)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp. butter
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh ginger
1 medium yellow onion, 1⁄2 finely chopped, 1⁄2 cut into
1" pieces
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3 tbsp. flour
2 tbsp. curry powder, preferably S&B brand
2 tbsp. crushed tomatoes
1 dried bay leaf
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut crosswise into 1⁄2" rounds (I used red and green pepper slices)
1 medium russet potato, peeled and cut into 1" chunks (one head of cauliflower florets and NO potato)
1 small fuji apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely grated (I used 1/2 a pear grated and one half sliced)
1 tsp. honey
1 tbsp. soy sauce
Steamed short-grain white rice (no rice here - just the veggies)

1. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a medium pot over medium-high heat; reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Season chicken thighs all over with salt and pepper to taste, add to the skillet, and cook, stirring and turning frequently, until deep golden brown on all sides, about 4 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, transfer the chicken to a large plate, and set aside.

2. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and melt the butter. Add the ginger, chopped onions, and garlic and cook, stirring often to scrape up any browned bits, until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is evenly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the curry powder and the tomatoes, stir well to combine, and remove the skillet from the heat. Add 1⁄2 cup of hot chicken stock and whisk vigorously to combine, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of skillet. (The browned bits will contribute greatly to the taste and color of the curry.) Whisk the curry mixture into the pot of simmering chicken stock, then add the reserved browned chicken thighs, onion pieces, bay leaf, carrots, and potatoes. (This is where I added the cauliflower, onion and peppers) Bring the curry to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened and vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes (only 20 minutes were necessary to cook the cauliflower and peppers).

3. Add the apples, honey, soy sauce, and salt to taste to the curry and stir well to combine. Cook the curry, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat, until the flavors meld, about 5 minutes more. Serve the curry with steamed rice.

I added the sliced pear close to the end so it didn't become mushy during cooking.

Warm cauliflower, egg and anchovy salad

Here's what I did with half the cauliflower in my veg box. Normally my first thought would be cauliflower cheese but the weather's so warm and balmy I fancied a salad instead.

Serves 2

2 large eggs
1 medium-sized cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 bunch of spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced or a small onion, peeled and chopped
1 x 50g tin of anchovy fillets
1 tbsp capers, rinsed and chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley + a little extra for decoration
1 tbsp red or white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

Hard boil the eggs for 10 minutes, drain and leave in their shells in cold water. Steam or microwave the cauliflower until just tender (about 7-8 minutes). Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a low to moderate heat and fry the spring onions for a couple of minutes until softened. Take off the heat and mix in roughly half the steamed cauliflower. Drain the anchovies (reserving the oil which is good for drizzling over pizzas) and chop half the fillets finely. Shell and chop one of the eggs. Tip the anchovies, eggs, capers and parsley into the cauliflower together with the vinegar, toss together and season lightly with salt and pepper (go easy on the salt because of the anchovies). Tip the salad onto a serving plate or divide between two plates. Shell and quarter the remaining egg and arrange over the salad along with the remaining anchovies. Scatter over a little more parsley and serve with some crusty bread or new potatoes.

If you don't like anchovies or not quite as much as we like them you could save the other half of the tin for topping a pizza or adding to a pasta sauce. The leftover cauliflower will make the base for a curry - as would any leftover potatoes.

Warm cauliflower, egg and anchovy salad

Here's what I did with half the cauliflower in my veg box. Normally my first thought would be cauliflower cheese but the weather's so warm and balmy I fancied a salad instead.

Serves 2

2 large eggs
1 medium-sized cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 bunch of spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced or a small onion, peeled and chopped
1 x 50g tin of anchovy fillets
1 tbsp capers, rinsed and chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley + a little extra for decoration
1 tbsp red or white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

Hard boil the eggs for 10 minutes, drain and leave in their shells in cold water. Steam or microwave the cauliflower until just tender (about 7-8 minutes). Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a low to moderate heat and fry the spring onions for a couple of minutes until softened. Take off the heat and mix in roughly half the steamed cauliflower. Drain the anchovies (reserving the oil which is good for drizzling over pizzas) and chop half the fillets finely. Shell and chop one of the eggs. Tip the anchovies, eggs, capers and parsley into the cauliflower together with the vinegar, toss together and season lightly with salt and pepper (go easy on the salt because of the anchovies). Tip the salad onto a serving plate or divide between two plates. Shell and quarter the remaining egg and arrange over the salad along with the remaining anchovies. Scatter over a little more parsley and serve with some crusty bread or new potatoes.

If you don't like anchovies or not quite as much as we like them you could save the other half of the tin for topping a pizza or adding to a pasta sauce. The leftover cauliflower will make the base for a curry - as would any leftover potatoes.

Cauliflower Casserole

I don't care that I stripped the nutrients from this lovely winter vegetable and ground them into the dirt ... really. This stuff is just too good for me to care. Besides, I'm sure there's something left there in the peppers. Or not.

Cauliflower Casserole

1 large head cauliflower
1/2 cup diced red pepper
1/2 cup diced green pepper
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup dried bread crumbs
1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Break cauliflower into bite-sized pieces and cook in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Mix peppers, cheeses, sour cream and salt together well. Fold in drained cauliflower and 1/2 cup of the bread crumbs until well blended. Turn into a greased 2 quart baking dish and top with remaining 1/4 cup of bread crumbs.
Bake at 350 degrees F for 20-30 minutes, or until bubbly and golden brown.

Try not to eat the whole thing youself, it should serve 4-6 people.

Ready, Set, Cook! #37 Recipes

Here's what I got for this month's game:

See Ranae's awesome meal at Cornbread & Cookies.

I posted Cauliflower and Leek Fritters (which were served with grilled chicken breasts) at Suite 101.

And this came in from someone who doesn't have a blog and wants to be known as, "a gal who loves to cook" - Good enough for me!

Cauliflower Chicken Casserole

1 small leek - cleaned and sliced
1 large head cauliflower - broken up and cooked in salted water until just tender
2 cups diced cooked chicken
1 large red pepper - diced
4 cups white sauce
2 cups shredded Swiss or Provolone
1 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Cook leeks in a small amount of butter until tender. Mix everything together and put into a greased 9 x 13 pan or large casserole. Bake at 350 degrees F until bubbly and lightly browned - about 30 minutes.

OK, see you next month for Ready, Set, Cook! on March 4th!

Ready, Set, Cook! #37

Click the above photo for Rules of Play if you've never played before.

Today's three are two seasonal vegetables and the easiest protein ever - chicken.

chicken breasts
leeks
cauliflower

Have fun creating! See you next week with submissions.

Sunday Dinner

Sesame Pork with Garlic Cream Sauce
Buttered Noodles
Roast Cauliflower with Garlic and Shallots
Mario Batali's Tiramisu


Sesame Pork with Garlic Cream Sauce

1 1/2 lb pork tenderloin
2 T sesame oil
1/4 c sesame seeds

Heat oven to 450F.
Brush tenderloin with oil and roll in seeds to coat.
Place tenderloin on a rack in a shallow roasting pan.
Roast pork 10 minutes; turn and roast 10-15 minutes more until meat thermometer registers 155F when inserted in center.
Make sauce while pork is roasting.

Garlic Cream Sauce

1 T butter
2 cloves garlic-finely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
1 T chopped fresh chives
1/2 tsp freshly cracked pepper

Melt butter in small saucepan. Cook garlic in butter about
2 minutes, stirring occasionally-do not burn.
Reduce heat to low. Add cream.
Cook, stirring constantly, until reduced slightly, about 10 minutes.
Do not let cream boil. Stir in chives, salt and pepper.
Serve with pork tenderloin.


Roast Cauliflower with Garlic and Shallots

2 bunches of cauliflower, cut into florets
4-6 cloves garlic
6 medium shallots-cleaned and cut in half
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
sea salt to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Toss cauliflower, garlic and shallots with olive oil, and salt in a large bowl.
Place in a large roasting pan and roast in the oven for 30-40 minutes or until shallots and garlic are caramelized and cauliflower is tender.